Ca diferente intre lemnele originale si fake-uri, la Butterfly am mai remarcat urmatoarele aspecte:
- scrisul pe fata lemnului nu este perfect centrat
- culoarea cernelei difera putin, pentru scrisul colorat
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seria lemnului este cu alte caractere...la original se aloca fiecarei cifre sau litere un spatiu putin mai larg, iar la fake cifrele si literele sunt mai "inghesuite"
- In situatia in care pastila de pe maner a lemnului implica existenta, la original, a unei folii de protectie, (in general la pastilele metalice, gama IF, Photino, Mizutani Jun, etc)ca si la fluture,... la fake-uri, aceasta nu exista, iar pastila e din plastic
- - - Actualizat - - -
O parere (copiata, in engleza, isi traduce fiecare

) a unui user de pe forumul indicat mai sus de
nduviscaria:
I agree, for beginners, this blade would be hard to spot. Typical areas to spot for fake Butterfly are:
1. handle color variations. Authentic - light. Counterfeit - Darker color
2. shoulders. Authentic - shoulders are just "right". Counterfeit - shoulders a lot narrow when it meets the handle.
3. Finishing. Authentic - smooth. Counterfeit - rough, especially around the handle
4. Plies. Authentic - plies are clearly shown. Counterfeit - plies are all jumbled up.
5. Serial #on box. Authentic - w/ serial. Counterfeit - w/o serial
6. JTTAA letterings. Authentic - black and stands out from the plies in the background. Counterfeit - lettering slightly faded, colors of the letters are the same as the ply colors.
7. Weight. Authentic - usually fall between the average weight. Counterfeit - most if not all counterfeits are significantly heavier by at least 10 grams on average
8. Bounce test - grab a real one and compare the bounce, frequency, and feel of the purchased one.